El Día de los Muertos in Tucson, Arizona: The All Souls Procession and Famous Sonoran Hot Dogs

The Memory Keepers by Michelle

   The All Souls Procession, in conjunction with the All Souls Weekend, is both a celebration and a mourning of the dearly departed. Death and loss are intrinsically bound. They are fundamental elements of the human condition. All Souls provides the community a space in which to publicly mourn, to remember, to reflect upon, and to celebrate those no longer with us. As a whole, we are united through the memories of our ancestors, our loved ones, and the living.
                                                                          ~ArtFire Website
                                                                    

My niece, Sonora, shows her holiday spirit.

We carry in our hearts the true country

And that cannot be stolen

We follow in the steps of our ancestry

And that cannot be broken

~Lyrics from The Dead Heart by Midnight Oil

   During my formative years, I was raised by parents who, for a time, adhered to the strict tenets of a certain Christian faith. We weren't really churchgoing people though. I recall sitting in a pew a couple of times next to my Mom when I was very young. She tickled my arm in an effort to keep me awake during dreary Saturday morning services. Later, instead of attending church, our Dad opted to read from the Bible or articles published in The Plain Truth to us on Sabbath mornings, and that lasted for an eternity it seemed, but then finally fizzled out, much to our relief. In high school, I had a crush on a guy that attended Bible studies, so I went, too. He liked the band Styx (secretly, that is, because his parents didn't approve of rock 'n' roll, and especially a band named after the river leading to Hades). He also enjoyed playing Ultimate Frisbee. I did, too. Around that same time, my childhood best friend Sandy and I enjoyed attending Hume Lake Christian camps over the span of two summers. We had a lot of fun rowing boats on the lake and flirting with cute guys sitting around the nightly camp fires. So that was the extent of my religious education in my early years.


Juliette surveys the scene on the patio at El Charro Café located on
Court Avenue in downtown Tucson.

   However, in my twenties, under the guiding influence of my sisters, I sought to have a deeper spiritual connection with the Universe. I began by first seeking to understand the beliefs and ritual practices across the world's most influential and commonly practiced religions. I read the The Power of Myth by Joseph Campbell, followed by watching Bill Moyers interview Professor Campbell for the six part PBS series of the same title. Many books and much research followed.
   Being a descendent of immigrants hailing from countries associated with western Europe, I felt compelled to read further about pre-Christian Earth-based religious traditions, which led me to understand how America's favorite celebrations were adopted from my pagan European forefathers by way of Roman conquerors. Around 300 A.D., as the first Roman Emperor to accept Christ and convert to Christianity, mighty Constantine wielded his sword and thus began the rapid spread of Christianity.

A family visiting from Flagstaff applies makeup to each other while waiting for dinner.

   The early Roman Catholic Church kept the peace more easily by allowing the conquered peoples to retain ancient rituals, ensuring to this day the continuation of ancient holy celebrations, such as Samhain (All Souls Day, the precursor to Halloween), Santurnalia (Winter Solstice "Rebirth of the Sun" celebration, the precursor to Christmas), and Ēostre (the celebration of the dawn Goddess, the precursor to Easter), an annual event tied to the Spring Equinox and celebrated with a sunrise ritual celebrating fertility (hence the bunnies) and resurrection. Beltane, the second most important ancient festival, the first being Samhain, marked the arrival of summer. While not widely celebrated in America, in certain European countries, Beltane is a joyful time which is ritualized with bonfires and doorways decorated with flowers to protect a family from the Faery Queen.
   It is well documented that the early Catholic church initially went to great lengths to quash the pagan celebrations, but in the end, it was easier to let the conquered yet defiant peoples revel in their annual traditions. Christian acceptance of pagan rituals was tied to simply aligning practiced traditions to new values. That's just good business, folks. Priests blessed the celebrations with prayer and a sprinkling of holy water and a contentious situation became a win-win for everyone involved... the people and church alike. Besides, the food was pretty darn tasty at the festivals, and generous imbibing of delicious ale, mead and wine was pretty great, too. If you enjoy Halloween, Christmas, and Easter, then you have the pagans to thank. Raise your glass and say cheers.



   Call it what you like: Samhain, Shadowfest, Old Hallowmas, Summers End, All Saints Day, All Souls Day or Halloween, the days that bookend November 1st are a time to remember and celebrate the dead. October 31st through November 2nd are a time for reflection and to mentally, and physically, prepare for the approaching winter. Regardless of the origin, there are similar festivals at this time of year, across the globe, including North and South America, Europe, Africa and Asia.
   Living in Tucson, near the Mexican border, I have fully embraced the traditions of El Día de Los Muertos, which translates into English as The Day of the Dead. In Mexico, November 1st is dedicated to remembering Día de los Angelitos, little angels, referring to deceased infants and children. November 2nd focuses on adults that have passed, including friends, family and ancestors. Although the subject of death can be quite somber, and often takes the tone of morbidity in our American society, the Mexican cultural approach of addressing the subject of death is quite joyful and full of lively mockery.

   A favorite activity for me during this time of year is to make and decorate sugar skulls and to create a personal altar to honor my ancestors and loved ones that have died. My sister Juliette got me started on building altars when she first made one in honor of our sister, Maria. Our family was grappling with ways to deal with Maria's sudden death, and building an altar gave Juliette a physical way to honor our sister. Maria's altar resonated with our entire family and Juliette's community when it was put on public display in Bisbee for an El Día de Los Muertos event. The American Red Cross asked to include Maria's altar in a traveling exhibit, but Juliette reluctantly declined due to the fragile structure of how the altar was put together. She felt the altar would surely crumble under the wear and tear of moving from place to place and from myriads of people touching it.
   At this time of year, Juliette also likes to celebrate the season by preparing pumpkin soup and pan de muerto, bread shaped like a skull. And, Juliette is always involved in a variety of art projects inspired by skeletons involving mediums such sugar, glass and clay. My sister Linda captures her community's spirit through her lens and publishes the often emotion-invoking images for everyone to enjoy. I'm also not abashed to throwing spectacular Halloween parties. One year my friend and I chose a Day of The Dead theme, complete with a community altar. It was amazing. And, particularly moving for some of our friends who had just experienced the loss of a loved one.

   In my own life, I regret that I have been slow to recognize the importance of symbolism and ritual. Growing up, my family came together for weddings and funerals and Christmas. When my Nana passed, the big family Christmas celebrations ended, too. As I've aged, I have begun to fully understand how difficult it is to make anything last: friendships, traditions, community, and even family. Ritual brings us together. In the absence of ritual, we fade away. We can so easily be disconnected from those things that at one time were most important to us. I have felt this most of all over the last decade. Things that I thought would not likely change, did in fact change.
   To me, death is a metaphor for the acceptance of the things I cannot change, or have been unwilling to change, resigning myself to what will be. I decide what I must own and what needs to be discarded. This time of year, when it is believed that the black veil is at its thinnest between worlds, and departed souls can more easily converse with the living, I give myself over to reflection. I have cause to examine the death of all things in time, and to more fully consider what I can and cannot change. In this season, I celebrate death and rebirth, and resolve to move forward on my path with a grateful heart.

   Tucson's All Souls Procession was inspired by the El Día de Los Muertos holiday. The Procession's founder, Susan Johnson, was struggling to find a way to deal with the death of her father. As an artist, Susan was compelled to channel her feelings of grief in a creative, positive and life-affirming way. In 1990, her initial offering was a ritualistic performance presented to the public. Reaction was so positive, and other likeminded individuals wanted to participate in a similar way, that the Procession was born. The popularity of the annual event continues to grow year over year. A whopping 35,000 people participated in the event last year and 250 volunteers, known as the Militia of the Dead, kept the event under control. The parade route covers two miles and culminates with a performance at the Mercado San Agustín by fire artists Flam Chen.
   "The Procession is a sanctuary for community members from all walks of life to express their grief and loss in a celebration of creative energy and a rejoicing of living," according to the official website. Procession contributors and attendees are encouraged to complete a prayer form, found here, where a participant can write what s/he is grieving, releasing, celebrating, embracing, and/or remembering. The completed forms are collectively placed in a gigantic urn and burned at the end of the night in a dazzling pyrotechnic performance.

Juliette's grandsons, Devin and Parker, are thrilled that grandma 
"JuJu" sprung for lightsabers. Best. Gift. Ever.

The procession appeals to three generations of our family, all gathered together
 to experience a unique and special event.

My nephew, Paul and his boyzzzzzzzzzzzzz.



   Events associated with the All Souls Procession take place throughout the calendar year, from constructing masks, floats and lanterns, to sewing costumes. What I truly appreciate is that it is an all ages event, and everyone is welcome as long as they are respectful and contributing to the event in a positive way. Since this is a community funded event, the Procession continues to thrive and grow from much needed monetary donations made by local businesses and the general public.
   There are two processions in which to participate. The Procession of Little Angels and Personal Altars Vigil take place on the first Saturday of November and is currently held at Armory Park. The All Souls Procession is scheduled on the first Sunday in November. Participants begin lining up at 5:00 pm. The Procession begins at 6:00 pm. Visit the Many Mouths One Stomach website, the non-profit organization that manages all aspects of the Procession, to access a map of the route. Also, check out the on-line photo gallery, a repository of photos from numerous, talented photographers. Following is my humble offering, a collection of images that I captured during last year's Procession.

The Goddess Catrina is also referred to as the Lady of the Dead.

 

 

Skulls are displayed on altars as a symbol of death of rebirth.





Viva las belly dancers. They were my favorite performers
at last year's Procession.

Love this!.... Marc Anthony in Day of The Dead drag.

  If you are headed to downtown Tucson for the Procession, you and your crew can conveniently grab a quick dinner at a number of hot dog carts that specialize in preparing Sonoran Hot Dogs. We also like to make this Tucson specialty at home for casual gatherings.

A picture can convey a thousand words in one quick scan. This photo just shouts two: bite me.

Sonoran Hot Dogs

Linda's Hatch Chile and Cheese Soufflé (Gluten-Free) and How To Roast and Peel Fresh Chiles

by Linda

"The chile, it seems to me, is one of the few foods that has its own goddess."

                         ~Diana Kennedy, author of The Art of Mexican Cooking



My Hatch chile and cheese soufflé being lifted from the oven. Hot and bubbly goodness...

Hatch chiles grown in California arrive in markets at the end of summer.

   Diana Kennedy, author and authority on Mexican cooking has this to say about the chile, "The chile, it seems to me, is one of the few foods that has its own goddess. In Mexican cuisine and lore, this “Respectable Lady of the Little Red Chile” is a deity that represents the chile’s everlasting significance in the ritual life of the culture. Losio, the Zapotec god who looks after newly sown crops, also takes an interest in the chile. And in Pahuatlán, Puebla, Otomi Indians believe in chile plant spirits that protect the seeds and the harvest."

   Hatch chiles are a variety of chile that hail from the state of New Mexico where they are grown in the Hatch Valley. Since the flavor of these chiles is rich and usually on the milder side (you can get a hot one from time to time, so beware) they are prized for their intense and deep flavor. Hatch chiles are also grown in California where they are harvested starting in late summer. Roasting them intensifies the flavor, and if you are not able to pick them up freshly roasted from your local farmer's market, the following pictorial will show you how to easily do this at home. There are many way to accomplish roasting the chiles and removing the skins, but the method that I illustrate below has become my favorite.

Hatch chiles roasting off the side of the highway in September ~ Benson, Arizona.

   This Hatch chile and cheese soufflé makes a great side dish for grilled meats. In developing the recipe, I wanted something simple and gluten-free. I love it alongside grilled Tri Tip. Add a salad or fresh veggies and you will have an end of summer supper that will celebrate these chiles that are only available fresh for just a few weeks in August and September. I love to reheat the leftovers (if there are any!) the next morning for breakfast.

Hatch Chiles: Simple Instructions for Roasting and Peeling

The roasted chiles are ready to be peeled and seeded.

Place fresh chiles on a sheet pan lined with parchment.

I like to rub a little olive oil on them before they go in a 350 degree oven for 30 to 45 minutes.

When finished the chiles are puffed and brown in spots. These are ready
to rest in a brown bag before peeling.

This step makes peeling chiles a snap. Put hot chiles in a brown grocery bag.

Fold the top of the bag down and allow the hot chiles to steam
inside for about 30 minutes or until cool.

The cooled chiles can now be peeled. Remove stems and seeds along with the peel.

The peeled chiles look like this. Do not rinse them with water to remove seeds because that will remove flavor. Do not worry about a few seeds. You will never know
they are there in the finished soufflé.

Linda's Hatch Chile and Cheese Soufflé

Pinto Bean Chili Con Carne

My Traveling Tales by Michelle

"Wish I had time for one more bowl of chili."

~Purportedly the dying words of American Frontiersman, Kit Carson

"Chili, chili con carne, Texas red - whatever you affectionately call this savory mix of meat and heat - is one of those dishes that most people feel just misses when made by someone else, while their own recipe is a deeply held family secret that should win blue-ribbon honors."

~The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins (Workman Publishing, 1989)

  

   Recently this desert dweller found herself plunged into the biting cold of the northeastern United States during a major snow storm. I would have been content to cozy myself in the window seat of a quaint inn, a knitted throw over my lap, a glass of port within easy reach, a happy fire in the hearth and a book, inverted on my lap, waiting patiently as I absent-mindedly gaze upon the snow as it falls in a slow waltz to land lightly on the pristine white carpet one story below. Alas, my visit was not a vacation, but long work days kick started by early mornings (save one), driving across three states in six days, staying in three hotels, visiting four customers, and beginning and ending the business trip with connecting flights and dual layovers in Chicago - not always the easiest place to get in and out of in winter.


The hidden house.

   I typically associate snow with fun, of the downhill skiing variety. I reminisce fondly of days on the slopes followed by evening cocktails and warming dinners in the cabin or a nearby restaurant, typically a steakhouse or a pizza parlor, sitting in a booth, exhausted and happy, cheeks radiating heat brought on by the blasts of cold wind incurred by riding lifts and speeding down slopes. We crash after dinner, bone tired, to sleep like the dead. Waking the next morning, groaning from the pain of aching muscles, we look forward to another day on the mountain, our skis carving turns into light powdery snow.



Portland Head Light located in Cape Elizabeth, Maine.

   If we're staying with friends, inevitably the ladies or the gents will rustle up a big pot of spaghetti with Bolognese or someone will make Chili ahead of time, freeze and then transport in an ice chest for an extra easy and less costly alternative to eating out. A salad with choice of dressings and homemade garlic bread for either entrée and dinner is ready for a large group with relative ease.

   So more often than not, I associate Chili more with cold weather than I do with getting together with the gang to watch sporting events. Naturally then, driving through snow laden roads through Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine, snow flakes mounting an onslaught against the windshield, my craving for chili escalated by the day. Strange thing though, everywhere we went, chili was not on the menu. It slowly dawned on me that Chili is a western dish. Believe me, I love Clam Chowder, but a girl cannot live on that alone and unfortunately I am allergic to lobster so any kind of bisque that included the giant crustacean was not an option for me.

   Finally, my quest was answered at a steakhouse in Maine. It was getting late in the evening, so a big steak dinner was out of the question, and I thought a cup of chili and a nice salad would fit the bill quite nicely. Still, knowing that chili varies widly, I asked the waiter for his opinion. He seemed enthusiastic about the chili, so I went ahead and ordered it. As Juliette often says, "One first eats with the eyes." Upon the first look, the concoction looked like a cup of Ground Beef Bolognese. Hmmmm... that's not chili. Step two: tasting is believing. Still hopeful (ever the optimist), I took my first taste and thought to myself, "I'm glad this isn't Kit Carson's last bowl of chili." He would have died a very disappointed man.

   Please do not think I'm being a Ground Beef Chili snob. I am not. I grew up on my Mom's Chili Con Carne recipe from the Better Homes and Gardens Cook Book, which consists of ground beef, chopped yellow onion, diced green bell pepper, minced garlic, canned tomatoes, red kidney beans, tomato sauce, chili powder and dried basil. A hearty, tasty dinner in under an hour. This restaurant's Chili consisted of ground beef and marinara. All that was missing was the pasta. That's not Chili, folks! Disappointed, much? Heck yes! Of course, my friend and co-worker, Bruce ooohed and aaahed over his scrumptious bowl of Shrimp and Lobster Bisque declaring it one of the best things he ever tasted as I sat snarling, feeling slightly bitter, at the mild Italian Chili sitting before me.

   My first order of business upon returning home was to make a big ol' pot of Chili. I like pinto beans in mine and two types of meat - crumbled chicken or beef sausage and cubes of pork butt simmered until meltingly tender. Is it the easiest chili to make? No. But I think the extra steps are worth it especially if I'm enjoying a relatively lazy day at home. Preparing a double batch of chili is as easy as making a regular pot and the taste gets better with a day or two of aging, making the dish a great make ahead meal for parties or dividing extra portions to store in the freezer in anticipation of easy weekday meals.
   After spending nearly a week of braving the elements of a New England winter, I appreciated returning home to Tucson where the sun always seems to shine even on cold days. I am also grateful not to put on and take off three layers of clothes (and gloves) a minimum of five times a day, or brush the snow off the car everytime we needed to drive - whether it was across the state, or just down the street for coffee.

   In my mental scrapbook of life, what I will remember fondly is the night when the guys insisted on a live action performance of what will surely be the next installment of The Fast and The Furious movie franchise by taking the Tokyo Drift experience to the mostly empty parking lot of the local big box store. The four tires of the sports coupe skidded and then carved "donuts" into the fresh snow. The smell of a hot engine and burning rubber slowly building up inside the cold interior. I instantly felt sixteen once again, screaming and laughing until my cheeks ached and my stomach hurt. I have identified my second favorite snow activity. I can make a better bowl of Chili at home, but donuts on powder will have to wait for another snowy day adventure. 

Pinto Bean Chili Con Carne For A Crowd

   Plan ahead as the pinto beans should be soaked overnight before proceeding with the recipe. Ideally, you can make the Chili the day before so all you need to do is reheat for your guests leaving you time to whip up some Guacamole and Linda's Salsa Fresca. The Chili is great served with tortilla chips, small flour tortillas, biscuits or cornbread.

   More often than not, I set out garnishes in separate bowls filled with shredded cheese, sour cream or Mexican Crème Fraîche, minced red onion, leaves of cilantro and wedges of lime. Yep, you guessed it, Margaritas and cold beer are quite tasty with the Pinto Bean Chili Con Carne and are always a crowd favorite. 

   Depending upon the size of the pork butt you purchase, you may choose not to add all the meat to the Chili. Consider reserving some of the cooked cubes for another use such as making tacos, burritos or a delicious bean soup.

Prepare Beans:

1 pound dried pinto beans, soaked in water overnight and drained

1/4 cup dried minced onion, optional

filtered water

Diamond® kosher salt or sea salt

Prepare Stew Meat:

1 pork butt, about 5-6 pounds, fat trimmed, cut in 1-1/2 to 2-inch cubes

1 Tbsp paprika

1/2 tsp cayenne

1-1/2 tsps sea salt

1/2 tsp ground white pepper

1-1/2 tsps ground black pepper

1-1/2 tsps granulated garlic

1-1/2 tsps chile powder

1-1/2 tsps oregano

1 quart chicken broth

1 bottle pale ale, such as Sam Adams®, optional

1 14-oz can tomato purée or 1 cup leftover pizza sauce

about 4 Tbsps ghee or high-heat oil (peanut, safflower, etc.) or more as needed

Prepare Chili:

1 pound uncooked Chicken Sicilian Sausages, such as Trader Joe's®

1 medium or large yellow onion, diced

1/2 tsp dried red pepper flakes

1 medium green bell pepper, deveined, seeded and diced

1 medium red bell pepper, deveined, seeded and diced

1-2 jalapeño, deveined, seeded and minced

1-2 Anaheim chile, deveined, seeded and minced

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 28-ounce can Muir Glen® Fire Roasted Diced Tomatoes

1/4 cup smoked paprika

3 Tbsps best quality chili powder

1 Tbsp dried oregano

1 Tbsp dried basil

1 Tbsp cumin

1 tsp cayenne pepper

1-2 Tbsps Tobasco® sauce or to taste

freshly ground black pepper

kosher or sea salt, to taste

Optional Garnishes:

shredded cheddar cheese or Monterey Jack cheese

sour cream or Mexican Crème Fraîche

diced red onion or thinly sliced scallions

leaves of cilantro

wedges of lime

Procedure:

1. Prepare beans: The night before, place 1 pound of pinto beans in a colander. Pick over the beans, remove and discard any debris or small rocks. Rinse the beans and transfer to a large soup pot. Cover the beans with water by 2-inches. Let the beans soak over night, at least 8 hours. Drain soak water and rinse beans.

2. In the morning, prepare pork: In a small bowl, combine spices, herbs, salt and pepper, and stir well.

Trim and discard excess fat from the pork and cut the meat into 1-1/2 to 2-inch cubes. Your friendly butcher can do this task for you, which is what we prefer to do. Sprinkle the pork with the spice mix, toss and press to adhere well. You can either cook the pork in a crock pot or in a soup pot or Dutch oven:

A. In a crock pot: In a saucepan, heat chicken stock, beer and tomato purée until boiling, then transfer to large crock pot set to high. Cover with lid.

B. On the stove: Place a large Dutch oven or soup pot on the stove and add the chicken stock, beer and tomato purée. Set the burner to medium.

Brown the meat in batches in a large, heavy skillet that does the job well. Add a few tablespoons of ghee or high-heat oil to the skillet. When the fat is very hot, add the pork and brown, turning occasionally, for about 5 to 10 minutes. As the pieces are finished browning, add the pork to the liquid in the Dutch oven or crock pot. Repeat process until all the cubes of meat are browned. Partially cover the Dutch oven with a lid, and simmer for about 2 hours or until the pork is tender and dark brown, stirring occasionally. Adjust the heat to low, if necessary, to maintain a happy simmer. Alternatively, cook the pork in the crock pot for about 6 hours set on high.

3. To cook the beans: Return beans to soup pot. Once again, cover the beans with water by 2-inches, about 7 cups. Add dried onion. Bring beans to a simmer of high heat, partially cover with a lid, then adjust heat as needed to maintain the simmer until the beans are cooked through, about 1-1/2 to 2 hours. Once the beans are tender to the bite, add 1 tablespoon Diamond brand kosher salt or 2 teaspoons sea salt and stir. Note: any acidic ingredients, such as vinegar, tomatoes, citrus juices or wine should always be added after the beans tender.

3. Once the beans are tender, finish the chili: Begin by heating a large skillet over medium heat. Remove the sausage from the casings and add to the skillet. Using a spatula, crumble the sausage as it cooks. When the sausage is cooked through, add the crumbled meat to the pinto beans. Add a little ghee, bacon fat or oil to the skillet and add the onion, sprinkle with a little sea salt, dried red pepper flakes and sauté for a few minutes, scraping up the brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the green and red bell peppers, jalapeño, anaheim chile and garlic. Add the crushed tomatoes (sometimes I blend the can of tomatoes to make my daughter happy), and additional herbs and spices. Taste check for salt and pepper. Stir frequently, until heated through and then add to beans. When pork is fork tender, add to pot as well. Stir often, and keep warm over low heat until ready to serve. Makes lots o' servings. Portion and freeze, if desired.