San Xavier del Bac and Indian Fry Bread - Traditional and Gluten-Free

My Traveling Tales by Michelle

The White Dove of the Desert: Mission San Xavier del Bac

   San Xavier del Bac Mission, also known as the White Dove of the Desert, is the first architectural building I recall making a lasting impression on me as an adolescent. I was about ten years old on my first visit. I recall buying a postcard that captured the Mission showcased against a sky set aflame by a vivid sunset. I pinned the card to the framed cork board that hung in my bedroom. I carried the postcard with me through the years. At the end of my high school years, as all good things eventually come to an end, I outgrew the cork board. The postcard along with many other "valuable" souvenirs from my childhood are now kept in a keepsake album tucked in my closet.

   I have returned to the Mission repeatedly over the years by myself and with guests. It is in my top three destinations for out-of-town visitors along with The Desert Museum and DeGrazia Gallery In The Sun. I usually visit the Mission in conjunction with a visit to Tubac and I always try to work the timing so upon our return to Tucson we are near the Mission before sunset. The most spectacular sunsets I have seen have been in the desert, in particular, in and around Tucson. To see the setting sun as a colorful changing backdrop to the stark white Mission is something to behold indeed.

   The Mission is the oldest European structure in Arizona and became a national historic landmark in 1960. In 1692 Jesuit missionary Father Kino visited the Santa Cruz River valley and in 1700 founded the San Xavier del Bac Mission. A second settlement, Tucson, was established around the same time, which in modern day terms, was near the base of "A" Mountain. The original church was frequently attacked and finally destroyed by Apaches in 1770. 

   Construction on the present church began in 1783. Fourteen years later the church was completed in 1797. To give these dates some context, the Arizona territory was established in 1863. However, it wasn't until 1884, with the Gadsden Purchase, that the territory, along with mission, transferred ownership from Mexico to the United States. The purchase guaranteed a route for the southern railroad to the Pacific Coast. 

   The Arizona territory joined the Union and became the 48th state in February of 1912. As of 2013, the mission has been fulfilling its original purpose for over 216 years by serving the religious needs of parishioners, Catholics of the San Xavier District of the Tohono O'odham Nation.



   The church itself is a fine example of Spanish Colonial architecture. I have whittled away hours simply taking in the beauty of the statuary and examining the details in the frescoes. I am always intrigued that Our Lady of Guadalupe is absent from the murals. This is particularly surprising because Guadalupe was credited for ending a deadly epidemic in Mexico City in the year 1737. Seventeen years later, Pope Benedict XIV approved her patronage and assigned a feast and mass in her honor every December 12th. Therefore, by the time the mission was complete in 1797, the veneration of Guadalupe was strong and growing, which has carried on over the centuries with vigilance, particularly among women. 

    At the mission, the Patroness of the Americas, as Guadalupe was declared by Pope John Paul II, is paid tribute with one painting hanging near the large mesquite doors in the church, a carved wooden statue by the museum entrance, a tiled representation in a courtyard and a unique iron sculpture in the garden. Her graceful figure is depicted on the most favored candle - as evidenced from all her candles placed throughout the small chapel and in the church - from the wide array available for purchase in the gift shop. The lighted candles fill the air with the unmistakable heavy and humid fragrance of hot wax. The smokeless flickering flames provide a soft glow to alcoves and the transfixed saints made of wood.

   If you are in the mood to take photos, or desire time for quiet contemplation, arrive at the mission as early as possible to avoid the inevitable crowds that begin arriving in the late morning and throughout the afternoon. The church is open from 7:00 to 5:00 daily. At sunset, surely one of the best vantage points is to climb the small hill next to the mission in hopes to see a vividly painted sky as a backdrop for the white washed architecture. As a reminder, folks flock to Sunday mass and it is the busiest day of the week. There is also a vigil on Saturday's at 5:30 p.m., so plan your visit accordingly. 

  

The shell, a representation of pilgrimage after the patron Saint of Spain, is 
replicated throughout the church.

Guadalupe is given a place of honor in a side garden beside a Palo Verde tree.

   Unfortunately relatively little is known about the people who designed, built and decorated the church. No records exist, except for information perhaps related to the architect. It is believed that the vibrant frescoes were completed by a minimum of three artists, all whom remain anonymous to this day. The church is assembled from adobe bricks and it is widely believed that Native Americans supplied the labor.



   I always enjoy the cactus garden, especially when the cacti are in bloom. The xeriscape garden decorates the entrance leading to the small chapel that is located next to church. I was pleased to capture the photo (below) of a bee approaching a fuchsia tinted cholla blossom. To capture the moment with my 85mm lens, I had to stretch - and I mean stretch as in cartoon style- to lean over the swagged chain link "rope" that serves as a barrier between the concrete path and the garden. In fact, I metaphorically kicked myself later for not bringing multiple lenses, but I embraced the challenges of working with a prime lens. On my next visit I will also include a longer focal length lens to capture the paintings around the dome which is 52 feet high and is supported by beautiful arches and Romanesque-styled squinches.

Iʼitoi, the Man in the Maze, is the creater God of the O'odham people.

   I have a friend who has the Man in the Maze tattooed just below his neck. Now, whenever I see I'itoi, I am reminded of Chris. We are all collectively navigating the maze of life. The metaphor certainly resonates with me.

I adore the sacred heart decorating this statue's chest.

Antique milagros (religious folk charms) are on exhibit in the museum.



   The Mission always seems to be under perpetual restoration. The work continues as funds are available. Unfortunately, the church has experienced fund-raising set-backs due to the recession. The Save America's Treasures program, a public and private partnership through the National Trust has ended due to Congress repealing the program. In 2005, the church received $250,000.00 from this program for restoration of the West Tower. At the state level, the Arizona legislature repealed funding for the Arizona Heritage Fund and subsequently a promised grant of $150,000.00 was rescinded. This is why in the photos the west tower is pristine and the east tower is visibly in need of work.

   The mission has an outreach program asking for support from folks like you and me for donations in continuing the restoration and preservation of this important historical site. Please visit the Patronato San Xavier website, a not for profit organization, for more information about the restoration projects and to donate. Collection boxes are also on-site to receive donations.

The view looking out San Xavier's "back door" is towards Tucson.

Farmlands are planted and tended near the Mission.

     The mission is about a fifteen minute drive from downtown Tucson and is accessible from its own exit on highway 19 which feeds into a narrow two lane road that is bordered by farmland and tended fields. The first view of the White Dove of the Desert is from a distance and the church looks miniature against sloping hills and vast sky. From downtown Tucson there is low-cost round-trip public transportation option to San Xavier by bus.

The parting view from the car's side view mirror.

Indian Fry Bread - Traditional and Gluten-Free

Hummus Reincarnated: So Smooth It's Like Mousse

by Michelle

"Of all the things that I love the most about preparing food and experimenting with recipes is that over time, if one is patient and willing, one can, on any given day, create a brand new dish. Something that you might previously have thought to be not that exciting or commonplace, can with a twist or a new technique, reveal itself to be a delicious new star in your everyday repertoire. Such is the discovery that I made about hummus during Michelle's recent visit. Without a doubt, this is a recipe with a special attention to detail, which makes all the difference. It will help you make the best hummus you have ever eaten."   ~Linda

 
   I can just imagine what my friends, or even worse, what my sister, Juliette will have to say about this post. "Just for clarification...  once again, you did what with a chickpea?" As Katy Perry might riff on herself, "I pinched a chickpea and I liked it." A simple pinch between my thumb and forefinger was all it took to pop each individual bean from its skin. Tedious work? A little, but not difficult. The results are worth the effort if you like hummus silky smooth like I do. This is an amiable chore when you have kitchen companionship - four hands make quick the work of two. Or, switch to the alternate mood zone, and listen to an audiobook while you make light of a repetitious job.

The garbanzo skins will amount to more than you imagined. 

   I like to give credit where credit is due. I saw the technique for removing the chickpea's skin over over at the Smitten Kitchen. However, the necessary step of adding ice water for a super silky texture was gleaned from cookbook Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, which I highly recommend that you add to your cookbook collection. It's a fascinating read, the photos are gorgeous and it makes me want to put on an apron and cook.

   The trick here is to not add too much garlic especially if the hummus will sit overnight. The garlic flavor builds as the hummus ages. I've learned this lesson the hard way through experience. The flavor of the hummus is not weighed down by incorporating olive oil in the purée. Instead, we prefer to use a flavorful olive oil as a garnish drizzled over the prepared hummus. We also like to hold back a few whole chickpeas to scatter over the final preparation. A sprinkling of aleppo chili is nice along with a shower of minced flat leaf parsley and perhaps a few fresh grinds of black pepper.

Hummus: Extra Smooth and Creamy

Ingredients:

1-1/4 cups dried chickpeas = approximately 3-2/3 cups cooked

1 tsp baking soda

6-1/2 cups water

-or-

2 cans prepared chickpeas (also known as garbanzo beans), skins removed and liquid discarded

plus,

1/2 cup Tahini paste, stir the paste until all the liquid is emulsified, and then measure

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste

1-2 cloves of garlic, peeled (Linda loves garlic but likes just 1 in this recipe)

6 to 8 Tbsps ice-cold water

about 1 to 1-1/2 tsps sea salt to taste

4-5 dashes Tabasco

Garnishes:

whole chickpeas

olive oil

aleppo pepper

freshly minced flat leaf parsley

freshly ground black pepper

lightly toasted pine nuts

a sprinkling of sweet paprika

Serve with:

flat breads

pita chips

prepared fresh vegetables

Procedure:

1. The night before, put the chickpeas in a large bowl and cover them with cold water at least twice their volume. Leave to soak overnight.

2. The next day, drain the chickpeas. Place a medium saucepan over high heat and add the drained chickpeas and baking soda. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cook, skimming off any foam and any skins that float to the surface. The chickpeas will need to cook between 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the type and freshness, sometimes even longer. Once done, they should be very tender, breaking up easily when pressed between your thumb and finger, almost but not quite mushy.

3. Whether fresh or canned, drain the chickpeas and remove and discard skins. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, with the machine running, drop the cloves of garlic through the feed tube to mince the garlic. Place the chickpeas in a food processor and process until you get a stiff paste. Then, with the machine still running, add the tahini paste, lemon juice, and 1 teaspoon teaspoon salt. Finally, slowly drizzle in the iced water and allow it to mix for about 5 minutes, until you get a very smooth and creamy paste. (I turned off the machine every so often to check the consistency.) I was surprised by the amount of water I added, so keep adding water until the hummus has a mousse-like consistency.

4. Transfer the hummus to a bowl, cover the surface with plastic wrap, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes to develop the flavors. If not using right away, refrigerate until needed. Remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving.

5. To serve, take a spoon and make a decorative swirling pattern on the surface of the hummus. Scatter the reserved whole chickpeas, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with aleppo pepper and minced parsley. Serve with flatbreads, pita chips or prepped veggies.